I’m not substantial on New Year’s resolutions, and I didn’t specifically go into 2023 with a approach. I did, however, enter the year intent on feeding on pretty properly, and if this roundup is any indicator, so did the rest of our staff. My highlights of the month were a gorgeous sweet-salty beef carpaccio from a Cambodian pop-up I observe about New York like a Deadhead, and a carbonara-ish dry ramen from a San Francisco chef’s counter showcasing uni and cured salmon roe that melted into a sort of briny pasta sauce. Other staffers’ best foods integrated daily life-altering okonomiyaki in Coral Gables, Florida, a caramelized onion torta in New York, and a great deal a lot more indicators that, if very little else, it’s likely to be a extremely delicious yr. —Elazar Sontag, restaurant editor


3115 22nd St., San Francisco

It was a enormous blow to the neighborhood, commonly, and to me, personally, when Claire Sprouse shut Hunky Dory, a Brooklyn all-working day café that served up amazing rooster sandwiches and cocktails. Some may well say I even took it personally, CLAIRE. So on a modern journey to San Francisco, I prioritized stopping by Buddy, a wine bar that Sprouse co-owns with three other veterans of the Bay Area bar scene. With the heat assistance and the low-ABV sherry, vermouth, and amaro-centered cocktails (like a dynamite clarified milk punch), I felt like I was back at Hunky’s bar. The tightly curated menu involved my platonic excellent of a excellent bar bite—gougères generously topped with creamy labneh and beads of smoked trout roe. It’s anything one particular could want from a community spot. If only it were my neighborhood… —MacKenzie Chung Fegan, senior commerce editor

Noodle in a Haystack

4601 Geary Blvd., San Francisco

I’d study about the mind-altering practical experience of ingesting at this set-class ramen tasting counter in San Francisco, so of system I prepared a visit when I was in town on a recent vacation. I was particularly psyched, but admittedly could not determine out what a set-program ramen meal would glimpse like. Was I going to pound six consecutive bowls of noodles and soup? That sounded good, but too much to handle. The total expertise ended up currently being much more light. Though the finale of the savory classes was a bowl of transcendent ramen with broth and all, the relaxation of the dishes had been interpretations of the dish—calling on and repurposing the approaches and seasonings that make a bang-up bowl of ramen. 

What seriously got me was a dish that had no broth. A modest swirl of bouncy, tightly wound noodles were being slicked with salty shoyu tare and adorned with a lobe of uni, a soy-remedied egg yolk, and remedied salmon roe. I could’ve stared at the dish for hrs, but the instructions from the kitchen were being obvious: “Stir it all up and make it hideous.” As the uni melted into the noodles and egg yolk glossed each individual strand, there was absolutely nothing hideous about it. —Elazar Sontag, restaurant editor

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